Treme'

      There's been a lot of publicity about the HBO tv series Treme', and deservedly so. Now in its second season and produced by the team that brought us the acclaimed series "The Wire", Treme is a slice-of-life, music-driven drama set in post-Katrina New Orleans and featuring an indelible cast of characters from diverse walks of life. Many people really don't know what the title "Treme''" refers to. It is a reference to the New Orleans neighborhood of Treme', a pivotal area adjacent to the French Quarter that has been of great significance in New Orleans history and culture. Treme', you see, may be the oldest African-American neighborhood in the country and certainly was the oldest residential area for "free people of color" in the slave-holding South. In New Orleans, under the sway of French law, a slave could under certain circumstance obtain his or her freedom. As such Treme' was a cultural cauldron. In the early 1900's Treme' including the area dubbed "Storyville", which became the officially designated area for legal prostitution. It was an entertainment district and musicians were an important part of the district's life. Jazz didn't start there but in the houses of ill-repute and adjacent inns, "piano professors" and small combos provided exposure for hot new musical styles. Even after legal prostitution was ended in the area, the district was a vibrant entertainment center, with many nightspots and bars featuring music. Then in the 1930's the buildings in the district were leveled to make way for the Iberville housing projects. A lot of history was wiped out but the neighborhood character remained unique--close-knit and a spawning ground of musicians.

      When Hurricane Katrina hit New Orleans, Treme' was flooded but did not suffer as much permanent damage as many other areas. But the authorities prevented residents of housing projects--including Iberville-- in the city from returning to their homes in the projects, under the guise of safety concerns. A plan was floated to demolish the projects and replace them with lower density housing. This plan was suspect since most of the projects were still habitable. It seemed dubious that the replacement housing could accomodate all the former residents of the projects and of course there was a question of what would the displaced residents do in the meantime--assuming they could afford the new housing options. Some residents did return to the Treme but post-Katrina edicts by city officials and aggressive policing made their lives difficult. It become common to hear stories of neighborhood residents being harrassed by police for simply sitting on their front steps, drinking a beer. In addition, traditional gatherings--parades staged by Social Aid And Pleasure Clubs, Mardi Gras Indian gatherings and brass band street parties--were targeted by the city. The cost of permits were increased to the point where these events were threatened.  Concerns about crime caused police to supress them. As a result, some of the oldest cultural traditions of New Orleans were undermined; their very existence was threatened. These traditions were and are the well-springs of New Orleans music.

        Real estate speculators began buying up property in Treme as, ironically, with the success of the television series, guided tours began bringing tourists through the neighborhood, even as the people of the neighborhood, whose forbears had helped create the neighborhood's culture, were being forced out. The very unique qualities that make Treme historic and cultural important are being wiped out at the exact moment that the district is being celebrated internationally.  A movement is underway to combat this trend and to support long-time residents. A documentary film "Fauborg Treme'''", which was begun prior to Hurricane Katrina, was completed and is available on DVD.

        New Orleans has a poor record when it comes to supporting indigenous New Orleans music. The current assault on one of the most culturally important parts of the city falls in line with that trend. New Orleans music has been nurtured by close-knit families and rich neighborhood relationships. If those familial and neighborhood grassroots relationshps are severed something irreplaceable will be lost. Watch the documentary, tune in to Treme' and get involved in the Treme' preservation movements. It is not yet too late!